Coloring a glass of water, part 2

Here is my final artwork for the post I made a couple days ago about coloring a glass of water. After reading through this you'll see why I chose to break this into two different posts. This is pretty tricky, so don't feel bad if your work does not look like mine on the first try.

This Karen Lockhart Stamp is a perfect example of coloring something inside a glass and under water. Just like the simple glass of water, we're going to color in the same order to get our clear jar to look transparent and tinted. Instead of the glass being purple though, old mason jars have a nice blue or turquoise tint, so we start with that.

First, let's start with the jar. I'm choosing a nice rich turquoise for my old mason jar. Then, just like my glass of water, I fade out with the blender. Let this layer dry! Then, come in with my water layer. If you don't wait for the first colors to dry then you'll loose the crisp definition between water and glass, and you'll have so much blender on the paper it will bleed and feather (ask me how I know).

The colors I've chosen don't have too much color difference, but this picture is so small that it really doesn't matter as much since it's the shadow we're really working on today.

Next, we color the the plants.

Remember, the stems in the water will be lighter than the stems in the jar, which are lighter than the rest of the plant. Here I've chose a light YG for the underwater portion, a darker YG but touched very lightly to draw stems inside the glass, and I use that same green for some of the leaves outside the glass.

My shadow is coming from behind (this is also so you can see the final shadow a bit more clearly), so from where we are looking the plant parts closest to us will be shadowed. To dim them down I overlayed a G85. Remember, colors in the 80's or 90's have more gray in them, so the G85 toned down this whole side of the boquet, yet it's green so we kept the feel of plants.

Shadows thru Water
Now we get to the tricky part. Our shadows for this picture are coming from above, left, and behind. See my diagram up close to understand better. The glass is clear turquoise, and our water is blue so our shadow will be blue and turquoise. However, shadows are also more gray than the original object, so we need to make the shadow for the water gray blue green.

In this case I have the perfect color for the jar, a BG93. The gray is built in, and when I layer on the BG10 I used for water it really looks like it belongs with the colors in the jar.

Start by lightly drawing in the shape of the glass. I know this part is tricky, so practice with a pencil a few times until you get a pleasing shape before you try it on your final piece.

Don't worry about the plants inside yet. Look at how I colored the water in completely. Because the picture is so small and I know that I'll be adding the stems I can get away with this (I'll really talk in-depth about true lighting through water sometime later), otherwise I would fade out the middle of the water-shadow more. Note also that I left the top portion of the jar shadow clear. This simulates the part of the jar with no water.

Next, add your shadows for the plants. These are NOT see-thru, so I'm going to make them pale cool gray (I'm using cool gray because the blues in the cool gray will match nicely with the blues in our water-shadow). Start light, you can always go darker. In this case I started with a C1 and roughed in my shape. Once I liked it I added the C3 and a hint of BG93 just to tie in the colors a little better.

Remember, shadows closer to the ground will be darker and crisper, getting softer as we get farther away from the object.

Here is our final piece, with all my notes erased so you can see how it all fits together. Can't you see this jar of flowers sitting on a patio table as the morning sun shines across the porch- the shadow makes the difference. Have a great weekend! Paper: Neenah Classic Crest, Ink: Memento Tuxedo Black Image: Cottage Flowers, Lockhart Stamp Co.

Coloring Fur

Today I wanted to show you a simple technique that people who have taken my Certification class are familiar with. This is a great way to add texture to anything you're coloring- it doesn't have to be done over marker, you can try this over pencils, over patterned paper, or even onto plastic or metal to add texture. This is also a fun way to add speckles to Easter eggs, without much mess.

Coloring Fur with Nasty Rag
For some reason I kept thinking of a shaggy bear today, and so as I drew him he was holding something and it happened to be a fishing pole. I have no idea why that came to mind. Anyways, I started by coloring him with a base color of E31 and then scribbled over it E33. It doesn't look furry enough, so how can I fix it?

I could scribble on a darker color, but that gets time consuming, and I still don't think it would look textured enough. If I wrinkled up a paper towel and soaked it in blender solution like I did with my bushes last month it would make his fur look lighter. That wouldn't be too bad, but I really want dark fur.

Enter Nasty Rag.
For this technique I take a darker brown, in this case E27, and I lightly color the tips of the fibers on the old rag. You can see why we would call this "Nasty Rag" once it's covered in permanent blotches of marker from all shades and colors. Copic markers are permanent on fabric, so be sure that you're using an old rag. I've found that old terry-cloth washtowels make great nasty rags (If you really want to clean it when you're done you'll need to rinse it in rubbing alcohol).

While the dark marker area is still damp I'm going to carefully dab it onto my bear. Whenever you do this technique you'll have better luck if you do this first because it's easier to fix your mistakes. Look now at how my fur really is starting to be rough and textured. The more you soak the rag, the larger the blobs. If you try to add the texture while the lighter colors are still damp you'll get a much softer, washed out look. If you want longer fur, try dabbing on something with longer fibers than this stubby rag.

Keep dabbing and layering colors until you get the look you want. Try to color only small areas of your rag at a time and it will be easier to control as you dab it on. For my final drawing of this rosy-cheeked bear, you can see how the texture I added really makes the fur pop out. Notice how dense the dabbing is down on his leg. To get it this dark I have to color onto my rag and quickly dab it onto the paper. I hope this gives you some good ideas of how to add simple texture to your work, have fun playing! Paper: Neenah Classic Crest, Ink: Multiliner 0.3 mm, Extras: nasty rag

Coloring a glass of water

After the last few posts you should all be experts at refilling. Sorry about how long that took, but when I cover a how to, I like to make sure you know as much as possible so you don't make mistakes. Today I want to talk about coloring a glass of water. Back in June I discussed coloring transparent things, and this falls right in line with that post. Later I want to talk about shadows on clear things, so I figured I'd better do a quick tutorial on water and other clear things before I really confuse you (water will also be something I discuss a lot in the future).

Coloring a glass of water
To break it down, a simple glass of water has 3 levels: The glass, the water, and the straw (or ice cubes, or fly that drowned, or whatever else is in the water). I like to color from the outside layer and work my way in- that way it's easier to see how much or how little color you need on the last layers.

Layer 1 - The Glass
My glass is going to be clear, but with a tint of purple. So first I start out by coloring only the edges of the glass with a light purple (it looks more pink on my screen). Notice that I am not using too thin a line, since I need enough color there to blend. Then, I fade the purple out to the edges with a colorless blender. I fade by starting on the inside and pushing my color out almost to the edge. Now my glass looks purple but clear. In hindsight, I probably should have used purple on the back-bottom round edge of the glass as well.

Layer 2 - The Water
My water in real life is clear, but that's boring and doesn't make people think of water. We're going to exaggerate the water, and since most people think that water is blue, we'll use a light blue to do exactly the same steps as we did with the glass. Color the edges, then feather it to clear in the middle. Notice though, where the water meets the edge of the glass I don't go all the way to the black line- I leave a tiny rim of the pure purple. This keeps the glass tinted purple and shows the thickness of the glass.

Layer 3 - the Straw
I wanted to show a bright red straw, but each time the straw passes through a layer it will get lighter since it has that much more "stuff" between it and the light. So my straw will be most vibrant outside the glass at the top, half vibrant where it passes through the cup, and less vibrant still where it enters the water. Again, notice where the straw meets a colored layer-edge I leave a tiny rim of the layer color visible. I also drew in a little line to show you better where the straw enters the surface of the water (really the straw would be visually bent and distorted from the angle of the light reflecting off the surface of the water, but we're not getting into that).

For my final colored piece I blended the straw there at the edges of each layer so it was a softer transition. Then I added a simple shadow made from the two main colors of clear- the purple and the blue faded out. If I really wanted to get detailed then my next step would be to add glints of light and reflections with tiny dabs of Opaque white (more on light and shadows later).

Refilling Markers Part 4- Refilling with the booster

I promise I'll talk about other things tomorrow, but I have one last topic to cover about refilling before I move on. If you still have questions about refilling please e-mail or download our simple refilling guide from the Copic Library. Note: filling an empty marker is slightly different since it takes a little more ink, but I'll talk about that sometime later.

Refilling with the Booster Needle
The most accurate and quick way to refill markers is with the Copic Booster needle. This is a large needle that attaches over the built-in dropper on a bottle of various ink. Then, you insert this into your marker, squeeze gently until you've added the correct amount of ink.

On a Copic original marker, if you look at the chisel end you will see a little gap between the nib and the plastic barrel. The booster needle fits down into that gap and easily fills the marker. As the needle enters the marker you will feel some slight resistance- this is where it is meeting the sponge reservoir inside. You don't need to jam the needle all the way until it stops, just until you feel the slight resistance.

On a Sketch or Ciao marker you will need to remove the chisel nib (NOT the Brush!) to refill with the booster. Again, push it in until you feel some resistance, then look at the ink level so you can tell how much you need to add. gently squeeze until you've added the correct amount for your marker type.

When pulling the needle out of the marker do so at an angle so the ink doesn't dribble down the side of the needle. Be careful not to squeeze while you are removing the needle as well or you'll be spraying ink all over the place.

Replace the caps and nibs on your marker and let it sit for a while to allow the ink to soak out to the edges. Test it after a few minutes to make sure you haven't overfilled.

Pro- Fast and accurate
Con- You're working with a big needle.

Cleaning out the booster needle
You don't need a different needle for each marker color, but you do need to clean out the needle really well between different colors.

If I need to fill a pale blue marker and a dark blue marker, I would do my light color first, then rather than clean out the needle I can get away with using it directly with my darker blue ink. This is not a good idea if you are switching from red to blue- this would contaminate your marker. When switching color families in particular, rinse out your booster well.

An easy way to clean the needle is to put it into a small cup and add a little rubbing alcohol to rinse it in. Another easy way to clean it is to take an empty various ink bottle, fill it with rubbing alcohol, and squirt it through the needle until the juice flows clear. Either way, be sure that the whole needle is clean inside and out, and the base is clean.

Storage
Since this needle is so long and sharp always store it back in the little pastic sleeve it came in. This protects it from getting damaged as well as from damaging other things. Don't store it dirty since it's hard to clean out crusty old ink.

Whenever I have a lot of markers in the same color to fill I use the booster needle. If I am in the middle of a project and just need a quick refill I usually use the drip and dab method. Either way my marker is good as new and I haven't wasted my money. One bottle of ink goes a long way, so you can expect years of coloring out of your investment.

Refilling Part 3- troubleshooting

The more I thought about refilling, the more I knew I had to talk about, so before I get into refilling with the booster needle, here are some more common questions and concerns people have about refilling. This post is the third part of my segment on refilling.

For those of you interested in my certification classes, there's still room in my Kansas City and Charleston classes, and I'm taking a mailing list for the Seattle and Vancouver BC classes in November.

Refilling Q & A

Q. Do I need to fill both sides of the marker?
A. No. There is one sponge inside. Just fill it and let the marker sit either horizontal or vertical. Ink will seep out to the tips within a few moments. If you want to start coloring right away with one of the dry sides, then you can drip a couple drops of ink onto that nib to encourage ink flow.

Q. How can I tell if I have overfilled?
A. It will blob or drip. After you fill your marker let it sit for a few moments to equal out the ink inside. You may even want to take the caps off both sides to help even out the pressure. Then, scribble with your marker onto a scrap of your good paper. If the marker visibly blobs or seems extra juicy (it spreads and feathers on paper that it usually works fine on) then you've overfilled. If it drips, then you've really overfilled it.

Q. What can I do if I have overfilled?
A. Suck out the excess ink and clean up. On colored markers you can use a paper towel and touch it to the tip to suck out extra ink. If your marker dripped when you tested it check inside the cap to make sure it did not drip in the cap. If it did leave a drip in the cap then with a cotton swab and some alcohol, blender solution, or hand-sanitizer clean out the mess before it cakes on your marker barrel.

If I overfill a blender marker I usually touch the tip of the overfilled marker to a used blender and the ink will flow into the drier marker, or I let it drip back into the large bottle of blender solution.


Q. I am having a really hard time refilling my blender marker from the large blender ink bottle. Any suggestions?
A. Use a standard-size refill bottle for filling empty blenders. Then, refill that small bottle from the large bottle, since there's no way you can tell how little ink to use for refilling off a large bottle. A large bottle holds 200 cc's of blender, so if you're adding 2 cc's to fill a dry marker you're getting 100 refills!

Q. Once my ink bottle is empty, can I recycle it?
A. YES! Although the recycle symbol printed on the bottle is in Japanese, this bottle is recyclable with your other plastics. In the U.S. it's equal to a #2. Or, save your empty bottle, thoroughly rinse it out with rubbing alcohol, and use it for mixing custom colors.

Refilling Markers Part 2- Refilling without the booster

There are a couple methods for refilling Copic markers. Each way has it's pros and cons. Please read Part 1 for tips on getting ready to refill, then you can read through these methods and find the technique that works best for you. You can download the refilling guide from the Copic website as well.

Refilling Copic Markers without the Booster Needle
These methods work for Copic, Sketch, or Ciao markers. In each instance you'll be refilling from the chisel nib on the marker. Don't remove the brush or fine nib unless you need to replace them.

Q. How much ink should I add to a dry marker?
A. Ciao- add 1 to 1.5 cc's ink Sketch- 2 cc's Copic 2-3 cc's Wide 3-4 cc's Each little mark on the side of a bottle of ink is 1 cc. These numbers will slightly underfill your marker, but it's better to underfill than overfill.

Drip and dab
This is the most direct method of refilling. Using the dropper built into the various ink bottle simply drip/dab drops of ink onto the chisel nib of your marker. To re-charge a marker it takes about 20-30 drops of ink (your drop size and my drop size are different, so the best judge is still how many cc's you've added). Let each drop get sucked in before you add the next drop.

I usually touch the very tip of the ink bottle to the tip of the marker, though some people hold it just a fraction apart (even closer than the photo). With practice you'll find the way that works best for you.

As you are doing this, try not to squeeze the bottle much, since it's really easy to drip ink. Also, if you have a drop waiting on the tip of the dropper don't tilt your bottle back upright without getting rid of that drop or else it will dribble down the side of the ink bottle (ask me how I know).

Pro- Simple. Just drip ink onto the nib, let it soak in and you're good to go.
Con- Slow. it takes a few minutes to completely refill a marker. Also, if you aren't paying attention this is a quick way to make a mess.

Remove Nib and Fill
This is much faster than drip & dab. With your tweezers pull the chisel tip out from your marker. Carefully set your tip onto something that won't get ruined or soak through while you are refilling. Be sure to check where the ink level is in your bottle before you start filling so you don't overfill.

Take the cap off the other side of the marker (this helps to avoid getting air bubbles and allows the ink to seep in better). Carefully pour in the ink. Don't squeeze too quickly since it's easy to mis-judge how much ink you're adding. When you're done, put the nib back in and put both caps back on. Let your marker sit for a moment so the ink evenly distributes within the marker.

German Refilling Method
We have a new Product Rendering Design DVD that just came in (I'll post a review sometime soon). It's made by our German counterpart and is translated into English, German, and Japanese. They suggest refilling by taking out the nib as I've described, but they take it a step further. With both nibs off and while working over a plate refill until a drop comes out the bottom, then quickly replace the nib and caps and let the marker sit. Be careful! The first time I tried it this way to make sure a black marker was super juicy I splashed a drop of ink on a new pair of light brown pants. What a mess! Those markers were full though.

Pro- Faster than dripping & dabbing
Con- Potentially messy if you aren't careful, especially the German method.

Refilling Wide Markers
I think I've mentioned this before, but Wide markers are super-easy to refill. Touch the dropper to the wide nib by resting it in the groove built into the barrel. Gently squeeze to add ink. If you really want, you could pull out the wide nib and drip ink down into the gaping barrel, but there is no need to do that.

Pro- it's easy
Con- I can't think of any.

In the next post I'll discuss refilling with the booster needle, as well as troubleshooting if you overfill, clean up, and other questions that are associated with refilling markers. If you have any questions about refilling, go ahead and post them here, then I'll address those as well. Have a great weekend!

Refilling Part 1- When should I refill?

I had a question come up about refilling and I figured that now is a good time to start talking about refilling markers. I got to typing this up and I realized that to cover this in depth I needed to break it up over a few posts. Sorry about that, but I figure the more you know the less likely you are to make mistakes.

I suggest you download our refilling guide from the Copic library for the simple directions and diagrams.

Planning ahead for Refilling Markers

How do I know when to refill?
Test both ends of the marker. The biggest hint that it's time to refill is when you use the chisel end you see streaks. On the brush end you'll need to refill when the ink has a harder time reaching the tip of the brush. If one end is dry but the other is juicy you may think your marker is fine, but it's not. It still needs to be refilled.

Sometimes the marker is so dry the tips will look light and blotchy (see photo). This is a REALLY dry marker and needs lots of help (sadly most of my personal collection looks like this and I always forget to get inks until I need that exact color).

Over time, if you find it difficult to evenly soak your paper or blend with some colors then you probably need to refill. You'll have to refill your favorite colors sooner than you think, so if you are like me and use your pale blues or favorite skin colors all the time, then go ahead and get refills now, before those colors run out. There's nothing worse than being in the middle of a large project and having your main color go dry.

Q. Will it hurt my marker if I don't refill it right away?
A. Not really. My biggest concern is that when I teach workshops and the markers start to go dry people tend to push harder on the brush to get the color to come out and they're more likely to break the tip. It is also annoying if you go to use the marker again and it's dry, so I try to frequently test my demo markers and weed out the dry ones.

Q. How many refills can I get from one bottle?
A. It depends on the marker type, but in general and without overfilling you can get about 10-12 refills for Sketch, about 15 for Ciao, about 8 for Copic, and 5-7 for Wide. On the side of the bottle are little measurement marks so you'll know exactly how much ink to use (more about this later).

Q. How should I store the Various inks?
A. You can store them either horizontal or or upright, just make sure the cap is on tight. It may take you a while to use up a bottle of ink (I've had some colors for about 8 years). They have a little rubber seal inside so they won't dry out, even if the bottle sits for a long time. Keep them out of direct sunlight and extreme temperatures and they'll be fine. Copic makes 24 pc. empty storage cases that hold either Various Inks or Wide markers. This photo is actually my personal ink set kept in an old store display.

Some things to consider before you refill:

1. Work over a protected surface. A thick paper plate, pie tin, or a stack of old newspapers make a great barrier for spills. Don't work over your brand new pants, your favorite tablecloth, or the white carpet. (sometime in the next few days I'll mention how to get marker out of fabric, since I have lots of experience with this).

2. Make sure your refill color matches the marker. This is an easy mistake to make.

3. Have everything ready before you start. Everything includes your clean-up supplies. Keep a bottle of rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) or hand-sanitizer and some paper towels for clean up. If you are using a booster needle I suggest keeping a small disposable cup to rinse it out in. Some people prefer wearing rubber gloves while refilling, so if you think you may spill the first time you try to refill think about wearing a rubber glove.

When you are refilling your markers this is also a good time to replace damaged nibs, so keep a supply of replacement tips and a pair of tweezers. Copic tweezers have little gripping teeth to get hold of those slippery nibs better (these are also important for pulling out broken brush nibs that can get stuck down in the barrel). It helps if you store all your refill supplies in one place close to your inks so that you can quickly fill your markers if you are in the middle of a project and don't want to stop.

4. The Refill cap unscrews. Don't try to pull it straight off like a marker lid, and whatever you do, don't squeeze the bottle while unscrewing it. You're bound to make a mess (I know this the hard way). Unscrew it over your protected surface.

5. Don't overfill. It's better to underfill.

6. Refill from the chisel end of the marker. Whatever you do, DON'T pull out the brush nib. This is made from two specially joined pieces of felt. You can mush and squish these nibs, but don't pull on them unless you need to replace them.

7. Give yourself plenty of time to refill. Accidents happen when you get distracted or in a rush. I can't tell you how many times I've spilled inks or overfilled a marker while refilling in the middle of a demo just because I look away for a moment, I get in a rush, or I'm just not paying attention. Usually if I have ink stains on my fingers it's from getting distracted when refilling.

Refilling is not hard to do, especially if you are prepared and you allow yourself some uninterrupted time to try it the first time. I usually try to get my teenage friends to refill my markers for me. It takes about 5 minutes to show them how to refill (I frequently tell my babysitter that she can refill her markers from my inks any time if she tests and refills my markers as well). Now that you're ready, look for my next posts on how to refill each style of marker.