Airbrushing Part 6, Basic Spray Patterns

Once your Airbrush system is properly working we can now refine your airbrushing technique. Today I'll show some of the basic spray patterns and some tips for how you can get even spray patterns on your projects.

Consistent Airbrush Spray Patterns
The first technique you want to master is a smooth, even background. If you look at these two spray patterns you'll see the top one is nice and even, while the bottom one is blotchy. If you want a nice even spray then you need to

1. Work Slow from a middle distance. When you go slow it's easier to see where you're spraying. Also, working slow and steady is easier on the marker. You don't have to push the trigger all the way down to get a nice, smooth spray.

2. Sweeping hand motions side to side are easiest. Try not to go back and forth part-way across your area or in circles- this will make your surface blotchy. Up and down doesn't feel as natural for me, so it's harder to be consistent.

3. Start light. You can always go darker, but it's easier to be light than dark.

4. Make a test spray of each color before trying to make a smooth background. this helps you figure out if that color is spraying consistently or is too low on ink to spray well (see troubleshooting for more help). Remember also that most colors will look different when airbrushed than they do directly on the paper,

As you practice, always work over scratch paper to protect your surface from overspray. Until you get the hang of exactly where your spray is going it's easy to accidentally spray your table, your nice project, or even your friend sitting next to you.

Distance and Pressure Differences
Once you master smooth, consistent strokes now you can try holding the marker different distances away from the paper and giving it different pressures (when I'm talking about pressure I am NOT talking about the settings on your compressor, rather I am talking about how hard or how soft you press on the trigger). You'll have to go back a couple posts to see the difference between the Sketch brush and these chisel spray patterns. Today I'm using the chisel nib from a Copic R59.

Most of the time I'm airbrushing subtle backgrounds. I tend to go for a far-away spray lightly pressing. Especially since I can always come back in and go darker later. It's easier to layer multiple colors when you are pressing lightly and are covering a larger area at a time.

Compare how dark the spray is when you are close and pushing hard to the other spray patterns. It almost looks like a totally different color because it is so intense. I try to avoid spraying this densely because there are so many dye particles sitting on top of the paper that your project will feel slightly sticky, especially on glossy surfaces. It's better to go lightly with a dark color than darkly with a light color.

Feathered spray from dark to light
The last technique you should practice is feathering your spray. There are two methods of doing this that most people use.

1. Layer a bunch of light coats to make one side darker. I do this when I'm darkening the edges of an airbrushed area on a small piece of paper. I color the whole background evenly but lightly, then I add one or two more light layers over the edges making those darker. This is how I did the blue on the final project today.

2. Apply more pressure at the beginning of a stroke and lift up at the end. Keep your arm in one place but tilt your hand so you are also lifting up at the end of the spray. This takes more practice, but it's how I achieved the nice spray pattern shown.

If you want two colors to blend into each other the easiest way is to feather each color into the other color. If you look at my example, I started with the red and left the trailing edge light, then I came back in with the blue from the opposite direction and trailed it into the red.

My final project today is this lovely stamp by Gina K. I started by airbrushing the blue sky (BG01) and I feathered it in as I got closer to the leaves. Then I sprayed close up but lightly Y08, YR16 and E34 to get the soft colored areas without masking. Finally I added a few accent speckles with the brush end of an R89 Sketch marker. Again, no masking but the project looks very nice and interesting, though the colors are better in real life than my scanner shows them to be. One bonus of airbrushing over a stamped image is that the airbrushed ink is dry almost instantly so you can use almost any stamp ink and any paper and the markers won't ruin your lines.

Airbrushing Part 5, FAQ

Here is a list of Frequently Asked Airbrush questions. I'll talk more about spraying patterns later. Thank you to those of you who asked me additional questions and I hope I answered them completely. Most of these are straight from the Copic FAQ page (though I did add a bit after reading some of the answers- I typed up the FAQ in the first place but I wanted to elaborate). I know it's hard to print our FAQ list so I'm including the Airbrusing segment here. Please download the other airbrush info from the Copic Library. I want to thank you for bearing with me, since I probably have a couple more days of airbrushing before I'll feel that I got it all out of my system and I can move on to something else.

Airbrushing FAQ
Q. Can I use any other brand of aircan?
A. No. Copic aircans have a special extended stem that only fits in the Copic system.

Q. What do you mean about how long do Aircans last?
A. Aircan D60 lasts 7-8 minutes, Aircan 80 lasts 20 minutes, Aircan 180 lasts 45 minutes. This is of Continuous use. However, you can't get continuous use out of the ABS aircans since the markers work best if you airbrush in short bursts and the aircans get cold which prevents them from working as effectively (see troubleshooting below). However, I can usually get about 2 days of demos out of one Aircan 180. I've never timed it to see if it's a full 45 continuous minutes, but I'm going to trust Japan on this one. Needless t0 say, the large aircan lasts a long time.


Q. Will the ABS dry out my marker faster?
A. No. The Copic ABS system blows air across the tip of the marker, spraying the dye suspended in alcohol onto your surface. This dye is dry instantly because the alcohol has evaporated in that time. The dye particles are very small and they sit on the surface of whatever you are spraying. When you touch a marker to paper, the paper sucks up more dye than it needs, so you end up using less ink for covering a larger area (this does depend on how densely you spray as well). As you are airbrushing, sometimes the tip of the marker will seem dry, especially on used markers. This is OK. Just wait a moment and the marker will go juicy again.

Q. I have an ABS-1. When I disconnect my airhose I hear air escape. Is this OK?
A. Yes. If you’re following the directions from the package, and you hear air escape it’s normal. This is just the extra air from the hose escaping- it is NOT air leaking from your can. If you want to use even that small amount of leftover air, partially unscrew the bolt on top of the can- this disengages the aircan. Then, spray your last couple bursts until the hose and adaptor have used up all their air. This way you won’t waste any air.

Q. Can I leave my ABS-1 or ABS-2 hooked up for a long time? When should I take it apart?
A. It’s OK to leave them set-up if they won’t be possibly knocked over or accidentally turned on. Make sure all the fittings are snugly screwed before leaving it for any length of time. If you will be traveling with your ABS-1, then disconnect it and replace the protective cap on the aircan. You can leave the air grip and air adaptor hooked up at all times. If you have an ABS-2, then don’t worry about disconnecting it, unless you think the button on the air grip would get pushed.

Q. Can I fly with my Airbrush system?
A. Yes. Put it in your checked baggage, not your carry-on. I fly with these all the time. They are classified as a non-flammable liquid, but I know security would go bonkers if you carried it into the cabin, especially since all the markings on the aircans are in a foreign language.

Q. Will my Copic ABS work with other markers?
A. Not really. They don’t fit correctly in the air grip (more on this later, but if you are willing to manually hold another brand of marker in front of the spray path then you can get something sprayed, it is tricky though. hint: spica look cool sprayed).

Q. Can I airbrush on fabrics?
A. We don’t suggest airbrushing wearable fabrics, since the dye particles sit on top of the fabric fibers and washes out easily. If you want to draw on a t-shirt then just use the marker directly (put something under it so it won't bleed). The airbrush system is very popular however, for airbrushing teddy-bears and wigs (hairspray the wig before coloring it, since the alcohol in hairspray will interact with the dye).

Q. Is this safe to use on people?
A. Although the markers are non-toxic, we do not recommend it for obvious reasons (don't try to airbrush on your evening makeup with your favorite Copic colors). Also avoid spraying on animals.

Q. Can I airbrush on black surfaces?
A. They will not show up if you use them on a black surface. The Copic airbrush system is not like a traditional airbrush, since Copic markers are transparent and traditional systems are opaque.

Q. Is this a double action airbrush system?
A. No. You adjust the spray pattern by pushing harder or lighter on the trigger. You adjust the spray area by holding the air grip farther from the surface. It's not a traditional airbrush, it's a marker sprayed with a neat system. The results are cool but it's hard to compare it to traditional airbrushing.

Q. When you say "Aim down and spray," what do you mean? I can't seem to see where my spray is.
A. If you point straight down your air will be spraying slightly in front of your aim, so be careful. If you still can't see any color, or if the color seems too weak go through the troubleshooting below (particularly if some colors work better than others and you know it shouldn't be that way).


Troubleshooting the ABS System
When you are airbrushing there are two things that could cause you problems- either the ABS or the marker itself. If your ABS is set up properly and the can is not cold, then chances are the problem is your marker. Don't feel like it's your fault that the system won't work. Most of the time it is a minor, correctable problem that will help you get your ssytem to work properly. Carefully read through these troubleshooting tips and 95% of the time it should solve your problems.

Inconsistent spray or Splattering
Uneven spray could be caused by a few things: First, check that all your fittings are nice and tight and that your Air Adaptor isn’t punctured. If you are using aircans, check that the can hasn’t tipped over, is empty, or that it isn’t too cold. If you are using a compressor, make sure there is no moisture trapped in the line and that you are working with an air pressure between 40-60 psi.

Next, make sure that your marker is inserted correctly (if the broad nib is in upside down then your spray could look odd. If the marker is old, it may need refilling before you can airbrush evenly. Sketch markers will give a splattery look sometimes if you use the brush end as well.
Aircan gets cold
This is normal. If you are using the can for a long time and the spray gets inconsistent but it feels like there’s still plenty of air in the can, then let your can warm up a bit before continuing. This is usually only a problem on the Aircan 80’s.

No ink, but air is working
If the air is flowing correctly from the nozzle of the air grip then check these things:
• Make sure the marker is inserted correctly, with the chisel point up in the grip.
• If you are using Sketch markers check that the marker tip is straight up and down. Sometimes the med. Broad nib is not inserted all the way. Gently push on the marker tip to make sure the base of the tip is flush with the plastic edge of the marker body.
• If your marker is old or has been used a lot, it might need more ink. Also, the tip might be worn or frayed. You should replace the tip to get the best spray.
• The fine point on a Copic Marker will not work, but either end works on a Sketch.
• If you are using a compressor, make sure the pressure is correct. Too little will not spray and too much will blow out the system.

Leaking air
Tighten all fixtures. Replace any worn hoses or fittings. If you are using your own compressor, make sure the fitting is the correct size.

Tempermental Sketch Nibs
I have found that when you purchase a brand-new Sketch marker sometimes the machine that assembles them doesn't shove the chisel nib in all the way, or it could be pushed just a hair too far. If your spray pattern is weak or is an odd shape, or isn't spraying at all then the problem could be your chisel nib. With tweezers gently pull the nib out a hair more if you see little or no spray. If you are getting an odd shaped spray then just push the chisel in a bit until it is correct.

Note: Keep the airbrush system away from open flame.

Airbrushing Part 4, Sketch markers

Sketch markers are the most popular style of Copic markers not only for their wide variety of colors, but also for their ability to airbrush. Unlike the original Copic marker, Sketch markers will give you two different airbrush spray patterns. This simple variety helps make your airbrushed areas look a bit more exciting, as if airbrushing wasn't exciting enough.

Basic Airbrushing
Once you have set up your ABS, insert either a Sketch or Copic marker's chisel end into the air grip. Make sure the point is up (see photo) for the best spray pattern. Push it until you feel it snap into place. Now you are ready to go. (Later I'll get into troubleshooting your spraying patterns, but today I want to cover fun stuff).

Here I'm picturing the ABS-2 that I mentioned yesterday, shown with a Copic marker inserted properly. Also note how they are holding the unit with the pointer finger activating the spray button, and the hand wrapped around the aircan, or for the other set-ups it would be around the air adaptor (This is an old photo that Japan gave me years ago, and I just noticed that the person in the photo seems to be either missing a finger, or they have a spare finger hidden behind the air grip- ETA: now I look at it this morning and the finger is there- weird).

The marker will spray slightly in front of where ever you think it will spray, so unlike the photo, aim STRAIGHT DOWN until you feel comfortable with where the spray is hitting your surface (I've been sprayed a few times by people wondering where their spray is going since they're not aiming down).

Airbrushing with Sketch Markers
Many people have asked me "Why does the Sketch marker even come with a chisel end? I like the brush, but the chisel is useless." This is because these people have gotten used to the smooth coloring and blending with the brush and now the streaky, chunky chisel marks don't seem as nice. It's really hard to fill in a large smooth area with the chisel (or the brush) without a lot of effort and ink.

This is where airbrushing comes in handy.

If you look at the comparison on the left, the medium broad, chisel nib allows you to smoothly airbrush. This is great for filling in backgrounds, adding soft color blends, or coating irregular shaped objects. The chisel end disperses the spray in a very uniform, fine-particle way (if you are using the original Copic markers, then the spray patterns are almost identical between the Sketch chisel and the Copic Chisel).

Note that when you compare the marker drawn straight onto the paper and the airbrushed examples, the airbrushing is a shade or so lighter than the marker would normally be. Especially on pale colors you will see that the airbrushing is very light, sometimes you won't even be able to see it at all (I had to increase the contrast on my scan to get the light blue to show up better here). Keep this in mind and try to airbrush with darker colors for more vibrancy.

Sketch markers, unlike Copic original markers have two ends that work in the airbrush. The chisel end gives smooth, predictable spray patterns, but turn it around and the Super-brush nib gives you a larger, irregular speckle pattern. This is more apparent on darker colors, or if you are spraying very lightly. The results are not as predictable however, and I strongly suggest testing and practicing to see what pressure and which colors will give you the best results. Juicy markers will give you better speckles as well.

Look at this pale blue masked example. The stars were created from Spellbinders Nestabilities Star dies placed on the paper. The stars on the left are from the chisel, the star on the right is from the brush end. Either way looks good, but like I say, the chisel is easier to get a predictable even coverage, while I had to work a little harder to find the perfect spray on the brush.

Used in conjunction with the even coating from the chisel nib, and you can achieve a neat duo-tone effect.

Here is a copper die-cut star from the same Spellbinders dies I've been using to mask with. At first glance the star looks like a nice dark red. Clock on it to see up-close and you'll see that it's not flat red, rather I added darker speckles of purple to darken up the vibrant R29. This helps add to the antique feel. The nice thing about airbrushing on metal is that if you don't like it, just wipe off the marker with some hand-sanitizer and you can start over.

How I most commonly use the two together is shown below on these paper flowers from Kaiser Craft. I pick a lighter color as my base color then with a darker marker I add accents of color that are more subtle. This is how I got the egg to look speckled a couple days ago and this is how I like layering my airbrushing on most projects.

You can see that with the airbrush it becomes much easier to color irregular shaped items, unusual surfaces (in the case of the metal star, if I had tried to color the red directly it would ahve probably been streaky and look uneven). When I buy embellishments, ribbon, or lace, I tend to always get clear or white/pale colors, since I can color them to match whatever I'm working on. If you have an airbrush you should try spraying something unusual- you might be surprized at your results (more on airbrushing tomorrow).

Airbrushing Part 3, ABS 1 & 2

Today I am going to step you through setting up the ABS 1 and ABS 2 kits. I know that it will be at least 3 or 4 days before I finish up all that I have to say about airbrushing right now, so if you have any questions or concerns about airbrushing start bugging me and I'll take care of those over the next few days.

Copic ABS 1
When you first open up an ABS 1 kit you have a pile of parts that look intimidating at first, but I want you to not panic. Yesterday I explained what all the parts are for, today we can stick those parts together into a working kit. Do yourself a favor and pull all the plastic wrap and packaging off, take the directions and set them aside for now, and then lay the parts out in front of you like in the next photo.

Put the Air Grip at the top, with the Air Adaptor right below it, plastic cap off. Put the air hose with the small end below the air adaptor and the larger end near your aircan. Now all the parts look like they go together more like they will when you are done setting it up.

At this point you should stop and read through all the directions before you go any farther. I know you want to get ahead, but please bear with me here.

The next step is to attach the air grip and the air adaptor. Just screw the adaptor in until it is tight but not cranked down so you'd need a wrench to get them apart. Then, attach the small end of the air hose to the bottom of the air adaptor.

Before I move on to the next step I want you to note that right now you have a basic ABS-3 set up. The only difference between what you see here and an ABS 3 is that you would be connecting a hose from your compressor to the base of the air adaptor, not the airhose from the ABS 1 (this hose will NOT work with an air compressor). I'll talk more about air compressors in another post.

Next, this is the most important step:
Before you attach the air hose to the air can, release the valve half-way. If you look at the close up you can see that I have it unscrewed part-way so that I can see the first few threads on the valve-bolt. You don't need to release it all the way, just as far as you see it shown here. Think about attaching a garden hose to your faucet. Basically what you're doing is turning off the faucet before you attach the hose, or you'd be spraying water everywhere. In this case, you'd be spraying air everywhere.

Now you can attach the aircan without worry. Again, screw it on so that it is nice and tight without being too tight. Once the aircan is attached to the hose place the can in the holder. This keeps the liquid air from tipping into the hose and splattering when you go to spray.

At this point no air should be flowing yet. If you hear air escaping then you didn't release the valve before you attached the hose. Tighten the hose down before any more air escapes.

When you are ready, slowly tighten the valve bolt until you hear air flow into the air adaptor, then tighten a little more to make sure the connection is secure. Don't over-tighten. Listen very carefully for air escaping. You should have heard air flow into the air adaptor, but that is quick and you should not hear air escaping anywhere else. Press the trigger on top of the air gripp a few times to make sure that air is flowing properly.

Now you are ready to start spraying (more on that tomorrow).

Here are some of the most common questions at this point. For a complete list you can check the FAQ section of the Copic website.

Q. What if I DO hear air escaping?
A. If air is escaping from the air grip, press the trigger a couple times and that usually evens out the pressure inside the seal inside. If that doesn't solve the problem then stop and start over.

If air is escaping from any of the connections, tighten those areas until you don't hear any more airflow. Otherwise, there should not be any air flow except when you press the trigger, or you have a faulty part somewhere.

Q. When should I take this unit apart?
A. Only when you are going to be transporting the ABS unit and the aircan could get tipped over so it would spill canned air into the line. I used to keep one of these set up at all times under my desk. It doesn't leak air so there's no harm in leaving it hooked up for long periods of time (nowdays I just use a compressor).

Q. How do I take it apart?
A. Basically in reverse of how you set it up. Release the valve half-way. Unscrew the aircan from the hose (you'll hear the air escaping from the adaptor, not the aircan). Once the air is detached the unit is safe to transport, just put the plastic cap back on the aircan to protect the stem from getting damaged. There's no reason to take the other pieces apart, unless you're trying to fit them back in the package.

Copic ABS 2
I'm not picturing it because I forgot to take a new photo, but set up is easy. Take the lid off the aircan D60 and attach the can to the air grip. You are good to spray.

I didn't show a project today mostly because I wanted to focus on the set-up process, not what you do once it's set-up. Also, this is already a long post. Tomorrow I'll show something finished.

Airbrushing Part 2, different kits & parts

I'm warning you now that airbrushing will take a few days, so bear with me. For those of you who don't have a Copic Airbrush System (ABS) you'll want one after a week of relentless posting about all the cool things you can do with them. Remember, all this info is available from the Copic Library, as well as setting up the other two airbrush kits. I strongly suggest you download it and read through as I step through each process.

Q. Which Airbrushing set should I get?
A. It depends on how you will be using it.
ABS-2
If you just want to try airbrushing before jumping into a larger system or you need a really portable system without much fuss, use the ABS-2. Uses Aircan D60, which hooks directly into the air grip.
Pro: This gets you started with our smallest, most basic system.
Con: The Aircan D60's don't hold much air and just when you figure out how cool it is it runs out. This can be an expensive way to airbrush.
ABS-2 includes: Air Grip, aircan D60

ABS-1
If you want our complete, most cost-effective system without buying a compressor, then you should get the ABS 1. This lets you use our larger, more efficient Aircan 80 and Aircan 180.
Pro: Cheapest unit without a compressor, larger aircans last quite a while before you need to replace them.
Con: You're still throwing away an aircan. After you've gone through 5 of the large aircans you really should start looking at getting a compressor.
ABS-1 includes: Air grip, air adaptor, air hose 1/4 to 1/8, aircan 80, and air can holder

ABS-3
If you already own a compressor, then use the ABS 3 set. You’ll need to get an adaptor to match your air compressor to our 1/8 inch hose fitting. This set-up will work with almost any compressor that can go between 40 & 60 psi, as long as you can match the hose fitting.
Pro: Never buy another can of air
Con: Compressors come in all sizes, costs, and levels of noisiness. Choose a compressor carefully since it is a long-term investment.
ABS-3 includes: Air Grip, air adaptor

Whichever set-up you get, be aware that the parts are modular. If you start with an ABS 2 and you realize that you want to use the larger aircans you don't have to buy an ABS 1, just the rest of the parts to make an ABS-1. Also, all the parts except the aircans will last a long time (until they are damaged) so you're not looking at something that you'll eventually have to throw away.

Q. What does each part do?
Air Grip: This is the main part of each airbrush system. This holds your marker and has the spraying trigger. To change a color you pop it into and out of this grip. The air sprays out of the little metal nozzle and across the tip onto the paper. There is nothing to clean-up and you never have to replace this part unless it breaks.

Air Adaptor: This evens out the airflow from either an aircan or from a compressor. The Air adaptor looks like an aircan with a bolt stuck to the bottom. If you remove the plastic cap there is a thin metal stem that screws into the air grip. You can use this part for years and years, as long as it doesn't get punctured. (I had one that was caved in because the compressor fell on it and crushed it. It still worked fine, it just looked really bad)

Aircan Holder: This is a thick piece of foam that holds your aircans upright. Very handy, since you do not want your aircans tipping over during use or else they will spill compressed air into the hose and cause spitting and splotching. Each hole is cut to accurately hold one of the sizes of aircans.

Airhose 1/4 to 1/8: This is the Airhose that comes with the ABS-1. It only works with Copic aircans, and is needed for proper use of the Aircan 80 and 180. One end has a large metal piece with a valve, the other end is a small, simple fitting. Does not work with a compressor

Airhose 1/8 to 1/8: This needs to be purchased seperately, and is an airhose for hooking the air adaptor up to a compressor. Both ends are a small fitting (not pictured). Does not work with aircans.

Aircans: Under each plastic lid is a tall metal stem. Keep the cap, since you want to protect the stem from getting bent when not in use.
Aircan D60 lasts 7-8 minutes. D stands for Direct, since this is the only aircan you can use directly into the air grip
Aircan 80 lasts 20 minutes.
Aircan 180 lasts 45 minutes. Aircan 80 and 180 are extra-compressed aircans and either one should be used with an airhose.

Q. Why does the Aircan D-60 hold less air than the other cans?
A. The Aircan D60 has a built-in regulator that allows it to be used directly in the air grip. The other size aircans need an Air Adaptor to regulate the air pressure. Because the adaptor is built in, it takes up space. If the aircan were much larger it would be uncomfortable to hold, so there really is not enough room inside to hold the air and the regulating parts. Also, the air is not as pressurized, since it is going straight through the built-in regulator.

Physically you CAN attach an aircan 80 or 180 directly into the air grip. However, this splatters and spots each time you tip the aircan becuase you're directly spraying compressed air across your page and it has no air adaptor to even out the pressure or flow. It really looks bad and is unpredictable in the spray pattern.

Decorated Eggs
For a quick final project today, here is an egg that I airbrushed. I used BG32 as my base color, then with the brush end of a V17 and a G28 I added larger speckles through the airbrush system. With the airbrush system this is super easy and fun (Notice that I'm holding the egg with the lid for my aircan).

Airbrushing Part 1, Basics

I know many of you have been bugging me for a long time about airbrushing, and it's not because I don't want to talk about airbrushing, it's just that there is so much to cover I've been reluctant to start on that topic. If you haven't noticed, once I talk about something, I talk about it until there's nothing more to discuss. Airbrushing could take up my blog posts for the next month, but I'm going to try to limit myself to a few days at a time.

First of all, I'm attacking this in chunks, so if your questions aren't answered today just wait and I'll probably talk about them later.

Basics of Airbrushing
I'll be abbreviating Copic Airbrush system to ABS. It's easier than spelling it out.

Q. Which markers can I use in my ABS?
A. You can use either the Sketch or Copic markers in the ABS system. I know some of you have fiddled around with getting Ciao to work. If you are willing to mess with it then go for it, though it's not officially endorsed by Copic, so I can't give you directions.

Q. How does the ABS Work?
A. The ABS is spraying air across the exposed tip of the marker. You can hook your system up to either special cans of air or an air compressor. Insert your marker, aim and spray. To change colors you pull out the marker and put in a new marker. No mess, no clean-up, and it's non-toxic.

Q. How fine a line can you get with the airbrush?
A. Not very fine. If you want a fine line you need to mask it (see today's post). Same holds for crisp edges; they need to be masked or else they won't be crisp.

Q. What is the ABS used for?
A. Most commonly it is used for filling in large areas (backgrounds) or coloring 3-d objects. There are really so many things to use it on that if you ever get an airbrush system you'll find yourself addicted and looking for any chance you can get to spray things. Wigs, fly fishing lures, paper boxes, teddy bears, metal, embellishments, clay...like I say, the possibilities are endless.

Q. Do you have more info about Airbrushing?
A. Yes. Go visit the Copic Library for more info and download the brochure on airbrushing. Otherwise, just follow along for the next few posts and I'll explain things more in-depth. A lot of the members of the Copic Design team have written directions in the past about airbrushing as well, and if I could find links more quickly I would have included them. If you have a favorite link to airbrushing tutorials please leave the link in the comments on this post for everyone to visit.

Airbrushing and simple masking
I've had this artwork for a few days, but I am just now getting around to posting it. I mentioned above that if you want a fine line or crisp edges you need to mask it.

For today's project I'm going to make a quick, fun background. Backgrounds are the most common use of the airbrush and this is about as simple as you can get. I grabbed a couple small leaves from the trees outside and I am using some Star Nestabilities by Spellbinders as my mask.

Under each leaf and on one corner of each star I added some removable adhesive. This keeps the stars from shifting and the edges on the leaves from lifting up. The airbrush system is spraying air that wants to sneak under any exposed edge so if you want crisp edges mask very carefully. If you want soft edges then you don't need to bother.

Next I chose a few fall colors to spray. I don't remember exactly which colors, but it was a yellow, a dark red, some browns, an orange etc. See how I sprayed a color, moved the masking shapes, sprayed again, moved the shapes, etc. This ends up giving us an interesting background. I happen to be using an ABS-1 kit for this post, but any of the ABS systems will do the same thing. Also, I am using the chisel end of Sketch markers, but Copic markers will work just as well.

This is a good exercise to practice spraying evenly, close, or far away and see what kinds of effects you can get. Since the background is mottled people won't notice if you make a mistake. Try close up spraying, far away, pushing harder, pushing softer. With practice you will be better able to judge how much pressure to spray with and how close to the paper you need to hold your marker (I'll also cover spray patterns later this week).

Once you are done spraying carefully clean up your star dies with a little bit of hand sanitizer. This contains alcohol and will remove all the marker from the metal very easily. Also, look at your leaves- if they're like mine then they now have some pretty neat coloring on them. Airbrushing is a great way to add extra color to dried leaves or silk flowers in your fall arrangements.

Next, here is my artwork that I want flying above my leaf background. I drew this with a multiliner 0.3 mm onto color laser copier paper. Notice how my main outline is thicker? This is because I knew I'd be carefully cutting it out and I wanted my edges nice and bold so they stand out more against the background.

I cut her out, poped her up with a few scraps of paper to give her a natural shadow rather than a colored one and my artwork is done. Very simple, very fun, and is perfect for the fall season. All this week I'll be covering more about airbrushing, so let me know your questions. Have a great day!

Coloring Dark to Light

Sorry I haven't posted in a few days, I've been on the road again and will be back to my regular posting more next week. Meanwhile, here's a simple concept that is opposite of how I usually color.

Usually when I color I go from light and add dark, then add light and blend the two together. What if I cut out the first step, and go straight from dark to light?

This is a great technique for people who aren't that great at blending, but want a softer blend with only a little effort, and who don't have many colors. I start by adding gray first where my shadows will be. I'm coloring very crisp and clean today to show you what it looks like without blending. You don't have to color with smooth blends all the time, crisp can look good as well. On this first circle I start with C3 and plan where my basic shadows are.

Next, I add blue over the top while the gray is still wet. I'm not blending, I'm just coloring evenly over the top of the gray. See how the gray naturally softens into the blue? It's subtle, but if you compare it to the next example, where I added the gray over the blue while the blue was still wet it didn't look as smooth. When you look at them next to each other it really stands out.

So why does this work? Lighter colors gently push darker colors out of the way, even without a lot of blending. This is true of any light color. If I went over it again with a light color it would blend it more and more. This is why the colorless blender works- It pushes and mixes a color with clear to get it to lighten up a color. When you use a light color like pale blue it leaves the pale blue behind yet you still feel the gray since I didn't completely blend it.

Why Shadows first?
If you have a hard time remembering where to put your shadows while coloring, just add them all at the beginning. If you use a pale Neutral gray (N1, N2, or N3) then it will go with any other color and you can layer your other colors over the top and you know it will blend well. This makes it easier to keep your shadows consistent, especially on complicated images.

Here is my final example. I colored it with just two colors- showing that you can achieve what looks like more complicated coloring, even though you're using only two colors. Note on the inside the light blue blends into the gray- here is where I added extra blue to really get the light gray to blend in. These shoes are photocopies from mt sketchbook, printed on color laser copier paper. Colors: C3 and B00.